Back home
Back again. This time the temperature difference isn't as noticable, even though its raining in the UK.
Back again. This time the temperature difference isn't as noticable, even though its raining in the UK.
Took one of the Jet Airways internal flights back upto Mumbai this morning and then spent the rest of the day swimming (and sorting out my lost phone ...).
Hired a car and driver for the day to go and see Mumbai. The roads are so much quieter on Sunday - five line highways into the centre had only light traffic. The centre has lots of high rise buildings with a lot of trees. Saw the Haji Ali, but didn't cross over (or take any pictures).
Then it was down passed the Malabar Hills (didn't see the Towers of Silence), Chowpatty Beach and just near to Wankhede Stadium. For those that wonder what goes on there, you can find out here. We then went down to the Gateway of India. This is a very impressive monument from on land and on a boat. #1, #2 and #3.
I took one of the ferries across to Elephanta Island which took around 30 to 45 minutes. I even spent an extra 10 rupees to sit on top. A military helicopter decided to circle around us. The Elephanta Caves on the island are described on a sign. The caves were built by the king Pulakesin around 7th century. He fought and besieged the Pallava king Mahendravarman I - who was responsible for starting the great works at Mahablipuram. Unfortunately lots of the Elephanta carving were used as target practise by English and Portugese soldiers. Much of it is patched up with reinforced steel and concrete. This doesn't detract from the amazing caves - it actually enhances the beauty of them. The friezes remain untouched, only columns, ceiling, floor and steps have been enhanced.
The caves are off up a hill with a long set of steps. There's a nice tree covered path around the hill, with good view back over to where the boats moor. The jetty had a train to ferry passengers to the bottom of the hill for 4 rupees.
The main cave contains :-
The first side cave is not too impressive. Bit too much use of 20th Century concrete on 7th century monument.
The second side cave is more impressive with :-
The third side cave was heavily reconstructed. It did have a rather nice lingam, but not sure whose.
Work, work, work.
The monsoon hasn't arrived yet. It was supposed to come last week, but is stuck down by Goa. Every day the newspapers report on the progress and give an indication of when it'll arrive. On Friday there's a massive thunderstorm which breaks the heat and causes traffic chaos. But no its just an isolated storm and not part of the monsoon.
A quick internal flight down from Mumbai to Pune was very easy and quick. Checked into the hotel and then went for a three hour tour around the city and temples. I got a red mark put between my eyebrows by a 'strange' woman near one of the temples. It's the first time I've felt slightly awkward in India. I got the definite impression that they wondered what I was doing. I had to leave my sandals outside the temples before going in, but even with doing that I couldn't actual bring myself to enter the temples (or take any pictures). It seemed to be a violation of some sort. So I respectfully walked around the outside of the temples and respectfully looked on from outside. Once I realised that the red mark seemed to cause some sort of offence I removed it, but not before I'd had quite a few kisses blown from guys holding hands ....
The view from the top of the Parvati Hill over Pune was quite spectacular - but so it should be after all those steps. #1, #2, #3. Some interesting plaster work at the top. Some guy was going up and down and up and down ... Went to see the Panchaleshwar Temple which was a temple cut into stone from the same period as Mahablipuram.
I'm off again at the last minute to Pune on the western coast of India. To start with it's a trip from Manchester over to Paris and then Paris to Mumbai. It's a very brief overnight stay in Mumbai - arriving at just before midnight and leaving at around 8am with no breakfast (but lots of fruit). Mumbai seemed really busy at night travelling the five minutes from the airport to hotel that turned into about 30 minutes waiting to cross a roundabout. Mumbai seems to be a city of road widening schemes.
Just got back - need to attach all the pictures and finish write up and do some washing ...
Its lovely and sunny in the UK. Everyone is wearing shorts and t-shirts, but I feel cold with a jumper on. How long will this last for !!
I've just expired. I've tried mixing dioralhyte with my drinks of water but still feel quite perculiar.
Got lots of amazing presents off the guys in the office ! Quite unexpected ! Also had a few team pictures, even though its against office rules.
Went out for dinner with some senior guys from work. Fantastic meal as ever. There is a major issue with where the chilli came from - well a simple piece of research clearly says it was South American.
After dinner it was a quick dash back to the hotel and throw everything in the case. But I couldn't fit everything in ! I had to leave my new Lufthansa sandals as they wouldn't easily fit in. I don't mind too much as they'll be reused by someone. They'd been free to me.
The mercurys just exploded out of the thermometer. How do people cope with this all the time ?
The bar at my hotel was closed last night and for the next four days because of local elections. The government doesn't want miscreants to interfere with voters. You couldn't do this in the UK !!
Went shopping today to get some presents for the children, with the assistance of one of the girls from work. I got some fantastic dresses for Jaz and some interesting things for Guy & Hugo. I also got some fantastic O'Reilly books from Landmark in Spencer's Plaze. It's a huge shopping complex to which they are adding additional blocks to. There's lots of little and big shopping shops being added.
It's over a hundred degrees fahrenheit, thirty eight degrees celsius. The lights and AC kept on going off then coming back on a few minutes later due to power brown outs. Yesterday and today are the only time its happened this year. It's because of the heat - everyone turns up the AC that puts pressure on the power supply that causes shortages.
I keep on getting asked how I've found India - what have I been shocked by ? So far nothings really surprised me, as my expectations were quite open. Mind you I've not seen the real India.
It's over a hundred degrees fahrenheit, thirty eight degrees celsius. Something bit my leg twice when I was asleep last night !
It's Mango week at the hotel this week ! They do like their fruits.
It's also lobster week this week and I got a 20% discount card pushed under my door. So it was off for some more lobster tonight, but at least I didn't have to pick which one I was having.
Driving back into Chennai this morning we saw what I'd really wanted to see. Cows walking across busy roads, forcing the traffic to stop. A herd of six or seven cows were sat across the centre of the road while busy traffic negotiated their way around them.
It's over a hundred degrees fahrenheit, thirty eight degrees celsius.
A quiet today walking along the beach, listening to stories of the tsunami and hearing the mullahs calling people to prayer in the nearby village.
Apparently there is some debate over whether this place is called Mahabalipuram or Mamallapuram. The signs seem to favour the later as did the driver, but everyone understands whichever name you use. Or they tell you that you've used the wrong name and it should be the other one. The reason its got two names is because Mahabalipuram is after the demon king Mahabali or Mamallapuram is after the Pallava king Mamalla. The location is a 7th century port city of the South Indian dynasty of the Pallavas. It has been classed as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
After lunch at a hotel on the edge of Mamallapuram/Mahablipuram we went into town to see the temples. There lots of people wanting to sell us things at each one and be our guide. First of all we went to the Shore Temple. This dates from the 8th Century and is the earliest stone built temple in India. The design of two towers was exported across South India and SouthEast Asia - which is why is looks so familiar. It's suffered a lot from salt damage from the sea. The sea used to wash against the base, but a protective block of soil and stones separates it from sea now. The outer enclosure walls have lots of small bull figures. Close up they are quite impressive after all this time. The shrines in the two towers have lingam shrines with a third shrine having the image of the reclining Vishnu.
#1, #2, #3, , #4, #5, #6
Next to the Shore Temple was the beach. There were guys offering horse rides, people paddling and people just meeting on the beach.
The next temple was the Pancha Pandava Rathas. These are the Five Chariots - five monolithic pyramidal structures named after the Pandavas (Arjuna, Bhima, Yudhishtra, Nakula & Sahadeva) and Draupadi. These five structures were carved out of single pieces of stone. There was an elephant, a lion, a hall, a single room temple and another one.
There's also a picture of me at the Pancha Pandava Rathas, to prove I did go to India !
Then onto the main rocky area to the west of town to see Ganesha Ratha, Varsha Mandapa II Cave, Rayala Gopuram and Krishna's Butter Ball
The classic Arjuna's Penance is just at the side of the road. This is also called the Descent of the Ganges. #1, #2, #3, #4 and #5
Off in the distance was Talasayana Peumal Temple, but we didn't go to see that one. It had a second vinymar.
This might have been the Krishna Mandapa. It's columned entrance hall with some carvings of Krishna above it.
Apologies, as I thought that this was a crocodile farm to produce crocodile meat (before I knew its mostly poisonous) or for their skin. It is a serious conservation centre attempting to preserve species of crocodile, turtles and snakes.
The signs were very funny.. Can you imagine that a crocodile do this ? Now which way is it to see the big crocodiles ? Well it must be this way.
There were lots and lots and lots and lots of them. Plus the odd Gecko lizard.
A couple of the guys from work take me out for the day. We start off at a village with all the buildings of the southern states.
shrine in a house, shrine outside a house, Cow ferility symbol, Christian stations of the cross, old chariot, statues outside shrine, some more (just like concierges at hotels), plus the horses they arrived on, some horses and a huge mural.
Another splendid lunch, this time at GRT Great Days in T. Nagar. Lots of jewellery shops and market type stalls on the way.
We went off to Fisherman's Cove this evening. About 45 minutes away from centre of Chennai. On the way the left hand side of the road keeps having power cuts but the right hand side is okay. I arrive and get presented with a sea shell necklace. I've got a little garden cottage, but aren't sure where everything is beacuse is dark. There's a path and lots of little lights outside little cottages. After unpacking a little and having a quick shower - oh yes, its an outdoor shower. There's a high wall around it so no chance of being overlooked.
Anyway I went for a walk along the red brick path and came down to a restaurant at the edge of the beach. I asked the waiter what sort of fish they had today as I knew it was a fish restaurant. He showed me a plate with three lobsters, lots of mackerel and prawns. He warned me to keep back, as the lobsters were still alive ... We decided on the middle lobsters and a mackerel with some lemon and garlic sauce. I went to sit back down and have a drink and some nibbles while watching the waves lap in. I though I could here a cat making a noise, you know - a high pitched sort of noise. After a few minutes it stopped ... Later when my lovely dinner arrived I realised what it was, Kitty the lobster was being cooked. Oh well, she tasted lovely !
[The next day I found out that there is a stray cat that lies around the restaurant, so perhaps it wasn't Kitty the Lobster..]
Another splendid lunch. If I had to stay for any length of time I would burst. Is this why Indian guys are either thin things or pot bellied - they either don't or do lunch ?
It doesn't matter what time you leave work, its still rush hour here ! There's some great sights on the way back, with lots of places lit up and people gathering round food stalls, shops or waiting for buses. I try to get my driver to drop me off across the road from the hotel, but he's duty bound to drop me off at the hotel so because of a blocked path across to the other side of the road has to take a 20 minute trip along road and then back to hotel.
Packed my case in ten minutes. So much easier when you're here. Let's hope it doesn't get lost moving hotels ...
Beat the rush hour to work today, but hit it on the way home. A barrier across the centre of the road which we would have turned through was down and policeman was having none of it. There was no choice but to 3km to next traffic lights and do a U turn. Its no easy thing in the city centre. Wish I'd jumped out near the hotel and so did the driver.
Lad who sorts out drinks noticed I'd brought some bananas from the hotel so asked if I'd like some more, okay if you're sure I said. Later on he returned with four bananas. They're a different sort to normal ones in UK. Quite fat small ones with a very thin skin. Walked across a busy main road and off down side streets, past a temple to Murgan to get to Saravana Bhavan restaurant in Vadapalani. We avoided the outside eating area and went into the cooled interior. Fantastic Tamil Nadu dinner ! Another banaba of a different sort for desert. Went to works canteen to have s snack later in the afternoon which was prepared as we waited - very nice for canteen food. Wish we had that !
Actually went to gym and did some running. Stuck my flowers in some water.
Work looks like one of the hotels around here. I got a bouquet of flowers when I arrived - red roses, yellow roses, some nice smelling pink things with a pine branch backing.
The act of work is just like work at any other place. Perhaps the only difference is that the blinds are closed so you're not sure when it is and there is the constant sound of tooting horns from the road outside.
Rather nice buffet lunch at the nearby Park Hotel. Went out for drinks and a little bite to eat at Jeffreys at the same place. It's really bizarre being in a very UK style pub environment, knowing that when you walk outside you're back in hot India. Journey back was down all the side streets, very fascinating seeing what is just off the main streets.
The phone rang early this morning. It was Reception to say that my case had arrived and would I like it bringing up. Yes please !
I've unpacked and sorted everything out.
Just been driven into Chennai and taken around a shopping centre to get some clothes and stuff. Went to a book shop and got a couple of books, and received a complementary tube of toothpaste ! I did get a couple of shirts, pair of work pants, sandals and some underpants as well.
I don't ever want to drive in India, its just too mad. I've driven in a lot of city centres, but this was so different. There are lanes, but no one uses them. There are traffic lights, but these seem to get ignored. You should give way traffic coming from who knows, as there was little give way. If you toot your horn then you are right/coming through. A whole raft of humanity travels on motorbikes, individuals, couples, whole families - normally on the same sort of bike. Lots of colour and sights as we travelled along, but few sounds or smells as the AC was on.
Came back to hotel and had a late dinner/early tea - a southern Thali, plus conversations about UK elections. Will John Major win ? Took a while to explain that one.
There been lots and lots of huge thunderstorms over Deccan Plateau as we've come into Chennai. Really intense with flashes ever second. Wouldn't like to be under one of them !
Lots of forms to fill in for lost suitcase, but they gave me 8,000 Rupees compensation. Just hope the suitcase turns up ! Until I get it, no pictures as the connecting cable is in there. Not much work either as batteries for work laptop and cables are in there as well.
Walked outside and found the thunderstorm was right over Chennai Airport. There was torrential rain with floods all over the place. On the drive upto the hotel there was a guy knocked off his motorbike by a huge branch that was knocked off a tree by the lightening. Saw first cow by the side of the road - very peaceful inspite of all the chaos of the flooded roads. The hotel guys all wanted to carry my luggage but were a bit disappointed that I hadn't got any.
Stewardess just told me that my suitcase never left Frankfurt ! Oh well at least I have toothbrush/toothpaste, deoderant and a spare pair of socks.
The much busier Chennai flight was interesting - dinner was so much better than breakfast. Lots of big fluffy clouds to watch out the window and House of the Flying Daggers (again and again). We've finished dinner, must be time for tea soon.
Just as I get to Manchester Airport a two hour thunderstorm starts. It absolutely chucked it down and thunders/lightening. But by the time the very quiet flight set off, the sun was shining. Frankfurt was having a very warm spring day.
I've had all the injections now and I'm all ready. Suppose I'd better get packed !
If you haven't passed on your shopping lists by now, then you're probably too late. I will endevour to get pictures of an elephant, cow in street, monkey and snake for early next week. There won't be any pictures of me in my new hat, even though I think it looks lovely. It's the sort of hat you get when you know you're going somewhere where no one knows you (apparently !). The guy in the shop said 'Are you expecting a heatwave this weekend ?', well yes kind of. That was good enough for me.
I exercised my rights and made my postal vote today. Sadly no Communists, Trotskyites, Greens, UKIP, BNP, Independants - just the main three and a Liberal. I think I probably shook hands with the standing and future MP the other weekend in town.
I've started the malaria tablets and surprisingly I've managed to swallow them. I did think about trying the alternate technique of lots of gin and tonic, but even I can't hope to manage this amount every day.
Of course that's just tonic, nothing to do with gin.
Things are starting to come together for the trip. Had another injection on Friday (Hepatitis B), only one more to go. Passport came back on Friday with Indian visa. Flights are all booked. Got a big suitcase (to bring lots of presents back obviously !). Hotel bookings should come through this next week.
Jasmine - Francessca the fish is going to be going on holiday as I can't take her to India. She'll go to Grandma & Grandad's first, then to Auntie Jean & Uncle Peter's while they are on holiday and then back to Grandma & Grandad's. Bobbie the Budgie will be looking after her. Don't worry, she'll be fine !
Just how big are those malaria tablets ?
Okay, they might seem small to you but I can't swallow tablets. I used to secretly spit out cod liver oil tablets when I was young because they made me gag. But was that just because they tasted horrible ? All tablet medicine tastes of raspberry jam to me, as I used to have them crushed up in a teaspoon of jam. The instructions say "For young children the tablet may be given crushed and mixed with milk, honey or jam.". Puts me in my place doesn't it.
Went to see the Nurse today and got full doses of Tetanus, Diptheria, Polio, Hepatitis A and Typhoid, with the first of a course for Hepatitus B. I need to go and sort out some malaria tablets. My arms are rather stiff !
I've got visits to the Nurse lined up for this next week to sort out any booster injections that I need or any fresh injections. The list of possible diseases is :
And also maybe malaria tablets as well ! I've also got a trip to the dentists lined up to make sure that nothing is going to need treatment while I'm away.
I also bought the Rough Guide to South India and have been having a good read. Also had a Madras curry for tea (by coincidence).